PERSONAL STYLIST TIPS: UNDERSTAND BODY SHAPES AND HOW TO DRESS FOR CONFIDENCE

Understanding our body shape is crucial if we want to feel more confident with what we wear. Apart from the shape and the proportions of our body though, it is absolutely important to consider how to dress all the individual parts of your body, rather than the entire body all at once. One of the first thing I do with clients is to determine their features, so if they are angular or curvy, and some people might have a mix and so be interjacent.

This helps to point in the right direction for choosing the best clothes, and fabrics to complement and suit our body to the best. Crispy fabrics and structured shapes, but also geometric (popelin shirts, cottons, structured blazers and jackets, geometric patterns, etc..) will suit best angular body features, while deconstructed shapes, soft fabrics and patterns (jerseys, viscose and silk, blouses, and “romantic” patterns like paisley, dots and flowers) will complement best curvilinear body features.

In order to determine if our features are angular, curvilinear or interjacent, a little exercise to do is to stand in front of a mirror in clothes that show your shape off. Look at your shoulders, are they straight across or do they slope down? Then, stand sideways, still looking into the mirror: do you have a straight back and flat bottom; or do you have a curved back and curvy bottom? Once you have determined which bits of you are straighter or curvier, you need to consider the actual construction of your clothes. Angular bodies, or sections, need straighter constructions; curvier bodies need softer and more shaped constructions. Interjacent people, will have to choose different clothing lines and structures depending on the different sections of their body.

Now, let’s dig into the body shapes: there are 6 different kinds of body shapes:

TRIANGLE (or so-called pear), INVERTED TRIANGLE, RECTANGLE, OVAL (or so-called apple), NEAT HOURGLASS and FULL HOURGLASS.

The difference stands mainly in the proportions between shoulder, hips and waist: when shoulder and hips are balanced (same width) they can either have a defined waist or a non-defined waist. In the first case, most luckily we deal with an hourglass (that can be neat or full..will explain more later on) while a non-define waist means we have either an oval or a rectangle body shape.

When the shoulders are wider than the hips, we are in front of an inverted triangle, as opposed to the triangle, where the hips are wider than the shoulders.

Now, let’s see shape by shape what this means:

1. Neat Hourglass: is characterized by a defined bust a defined waist, a neat bottom, and neat hips and have a naturally balanced body and also a defined waist, and while they have a wide range of choice, in terms of clothing styles, they should always try to keep this balance and also, and show off their body by wearing clothes that define the waist, enhance the bust and highlight hips and bottom. While they should avoid wearing clothes that hide their body line. So anything with waist definition is a “go-to”, while buggy, boxy and shapeless clothes are not recommended. Neat Hourglasses can wear most fabrics and patterns, as long as they complement their features (angular, curvilinear, interjacent).

2. Full Hourglass: you don’t hear about this body type often, many just talk about the “hourglass” generically, but some women, still having balanced shoulders, hips and a defined waist, have a full bust, a rounded bottom, and rounded hips and for them, rules differ a bit from neat hourglasses, and it’s important to wear clothes that follow their body line and curves, instead of those that are straight and constricting. In this case, I recommend choosing fabrics carefully and avoiding heavy or stiff fabrics, but rather opt for fluid, soft fabrics and more deconstructed shapes, like waterfall jackets, cardigans (and knitwear in general), crossovers or wraps tops and dresses, in soft fabrics, and as for patterns it’s preferable to avoid geometric patterns, and instead opt for more fluid shapes (spots, florals, paisleys).

3. Oval: usually has rounded or sloping shoulder line, curved back, flattish bottom, fullness around the middle and indeed the critical area is the central torso. My best recommendations for oval body shapes are:

-Draw eye attention to the area above your bust and below your hips. In order to do that play with accessorise (scarves, necklaces, earrings, hats) so keep any detail above the bust line and below the hip line.

-Create the impression of a slimmer body, so create optical verticality through the use of shapes and clothing lines. Wearing coats/jackets or cardigans which are longer than the hips line is a great way to do this.

-Clothing lines need to be straight, and fabrics soft to avoid any unnecessary volume or bulkiness.

-Opt for deconstructed shapes, simple lines and plain colours on the bust.

-Choose soft, fluid fabrics that hang well and don’t cling or hug the figure, and go for muted and subtle patterns.

4. Rectangle: Once again, hips and shoulders are balanced, but the waist is straight and undefined. Rectangle body types usually have flat hips and a flat bottom, however, some Rectangles can have a fuller bust, which gives a softer edge to their shape. Their main aim is to soften those edges even more and create the appearance of curves. This body type is characterized by a straight shoulder line, straight hips and bottom, very little waist definition, straight ribcage. I recommend using details on hips and bottom to create shape while avoiding details at the waist (such as noticeable waistbands or belts) and keeping the clothing line straight and structured. Most Rectangles can wear crisp fabrics, but those with a full bust, need to opt for softer fabrics, and generally geometric patterns work best for them.

5. Inverted Triangle: in this case, shoulders are wider than hips, and the waist is not defined. The body type is characterized by a straight and squared shoulder line, with flattish hips and bottom. I recommend highlighting the hips and bottom, focusing all attention below the waist. Shoulders are generally straight and squared, while hips and bottom are quite flat. Inverted triangles need to minimize details on their shoulders and keep this area as simple as possible while focusing the attention on their legs through, shapes, colours and details. Clothing line needs to be straight, clean and sharp. Halter neck is their neckline! jackets should be constructed and shaped with angular lines (like revered collars) and with no belts, while skirts should be straight and trousers used to add details to the legs and bottom (classic jeans are a perfect style!). I also recommend crisp, constructed fabrics and geometric patterns (like stripes and checks)

6. Triangle: as the name suggests, the bottom part is wider than the top, so the shoulders (and the top half in general) appears smaller than hips and the bottom part of the body, and usually the waist is well defined while shoulders may be slope. As opposed to Inverted Triangles, Triangles need to focus the attention on the top part of their body, through shapes, volumes, details, patterns and colours, and create the optical illusion of wider shoulders, while enhancing their waist with belts and waist-cuts, and minimize details and volume at the bottom. Soft, fluid fabrics work best for the bottom half, while it is recommended to opt for more volume and structure on the top part, to create a balance.

These are general guidelines, but everyone has their own, unique body and features, and there might be differences between two or more people fitting into the same body shape category. So while these tips can help to understand the different body types, it is always preferable to ask the help of an expert that can give personalized and customised advice.

This is an extract from the article published on Pick Me Up! Magazine 3 March issue

Publication: Pick Me Up! Magazine (c: 55,608) - Your Style - Dressing for you. Date: 3 March 2022.

If you would love to help in discovering the best outfits for your body shape, I’d love to help. Get in touch to find out more about my personal style masterclass and personal styling services.

PERSONAL STYLIST TIPS: 7 WAYS TO STYLE CROPPED JEANS.

Jeans – they’re an essential part of most of our wardrobes, but when it comes to the styles we can wear, they are countless. Cropped jeans are one of the styles of jeans that is a more recent trend after years of skinny shapes dominating the fashion world, but can be tricky to style.

The first thing to think about when it comes to getting your cropped jeans is how can you style them with confidence? Here are my personal styling tips to help you discover new ways to play with your cropped jeans and perhaps add them to your wardrobe!

Cropped jeans with ankle boots

When you think of cropped jeans, you may not initially think that wearing ankle boots are a great option, but they can be super stylish together! Adding your little ankle boots, particularly when it’s a colder day, can be one way to continue to style your cropped jeans, while remaining a little warmer. I recommend wearing cropped jeans with higher boots that can hide under the jeans leg, but if you prefer to show a little space between your jeans and your boots, and your cropped jeans are the same length as your boots, then roll them up a little to show off that little bit of skin and create a break line.

A black pair of cropped jeans with black zip up boots, that have a little detail can be a great “rock chick” look to try out. However, if you’re more “romantic” in your styling, find a boot that has a thinner heel or have a quirky pattern to them to bring a little elegance or flair to your look.

Cropped jeans with a long overcoat or jacket

Layering is one of those styling additions that can transform a look, particularly for winter wear. Find a jacket or a shirt that comes to the length of your jeans and style them together to bring a complete look together. When you are looking at attending a smart/casual event this can be a great look to try as it can elevate the jeans you are wearing to a more smart-appropriate style, while remaining comfortable.

For the layering items, you can find blouses that are meant to remain open all the way or just at the top, and you can go for a fully fashion-forward look by half tucking your blouse at the front to bring an a-symmetry to the outfit. This can also be where you add your colours to the outfit, particularly if you have blue or black jeans that remain more neutral – add the colours and patterns to your outfit with a bright blouse or jacket and you’ve brought drama to your outfit!

Cropped jeans with a blazer

Now, if you know me, you know that a blazer is an essential piece I recommend to any client that wants to have an easy to add item to an outfit that brings a formal/business-appropriate addition to any item – and the same goes for your cropped jeans! Where your blazer may be more form fitting, this is where you can find a “mom” style cropped jean to your outfit or a looser fit to the bottom, that is then bringing the eye to your waist with your buttoned up or belted blazer.

For more ways to style your blazer, I have created a blog that shares a few ideas!

Cropped jeans with stilettos

With this outfit choice, you’re really going to town with the casual jeans paired with your formal or even sexy stilettos! I love bringing a heel to my jeans, so with a stiletto, go all out and make them work for you. You can have your looser fitting cropped jeans paired with your stilettos to create a sexy date-night look in a flash – with just a change of shoes! These are one of the best accessories that you can bring with you in a bag if you’re going to meetings and then seeing friends or your partner in the evening. But, with the right stilettos, you can also make these jeans work for business meetings. Find a nude or black pair of stilettos and pair them with your cropped jeans for a more work-appropriate look, that works if you are more comfortable with a smart/casual business attire.

Cropped jeans with platform trainers

Platform trainers are an excellent shoe to add to your collection – they remain comfortable, yet chic and stylish, while adding a little height. A classic white platform sneaker is a great option to add to your cropped jeans, as you can look slick and feel confident running between meetings – while remaining stylish and professional. If you want to add a little more personality, you can find platform sneakers in a range of styles, so go all out, try adding a little splash of colour to a neutral look with pink or bright blue platform trainers, while you could invest in a pair of designer platform trainers to really upgrade your look if your jeans are more budget friendly.

Cropped jeans with a shirt

You really can’t go wrong with a crisp shirt and any style of bottoms, and with your looser cropped jeans this can be another way to ensure a more smart/casual look that may work well for a more relaxed business person. A looser shirt can be a good option if you have a larger bust, as you’ll be able to tuck in your shirt into your cropped jeans to bring you in at the waist – adding a little definition with a belt can be another way to continue to bring your waist in.

Finding a cotton shirt that works for you is one investment piece I highly recommend bringing into your wardrobe, as it can go really well with many bottoms.

Cropped jeans with combat boots

Finally, one of the most rock-chick ready looks to wear with your cropped jeans is with combat boots which are another huge trend at the moment – best if you can invest in a leather or vegan leather option. With combat boots you could play with different options, from the classic punk-look of Doc Martens, to a more modern and romantic style with stiletto fronted combat boots! If you are conscious of your leg length, then matching your jeans colour to your boots is a good way to help your legs look elongated, or buy a pair of platform or heeled combat boots to add a touch of height.

While this can remain the most casual of looks, it can work well if your business style is more rocker or design-led, depending on the combat boots you try (for inspiration on how to style your combat boots in a variety of different ways, go here).

If you are planning on trying some cropped jeans, I hope some of these styling ideas have inspired you to bring new looks together! If you are unsure on how to style outfits, or want to have a professional helping hand when you go shopping, please get in touch.

PERSONAL STYLIST TIPS: TOP AUTUMN COATS FOR YOUR WARDROBE TO SUIT YOUR SHAPE

As the cooler months set in, and we begin to take out more jumpers and put away the summer dresses, you may be looking to find an autumn coat. Coats can be an incredibly personal thing – I know of one client who tried on 10 coats and just didn’t feel any were “right”. The outer wear in any outfit needs to be comfortable, reflective of your style, and also, importantly for this time of year, warm! There are some go-to classics that will work each and every year, so I wanted to start the Autumn with the top three classic coats I love, with a few modernised versions for the trend-setters among you!

The Trench Coat 

This is a pure classic, and one we have seen throughout the years. Often in a camel tone, it can be an effortlessly chic option to layer on top of your clothes. Usually with a large belt to bring in the waist, this style can work incredibly well for many body shapes. If you are more curvaceous I recommend utilising the belt to show off your waist, whereas if you are tall and slender, keep it open to add more dimension to your shape.

For a similar shape and military style, but with a more elegant look, you could invest in this Danielle Frankel Allegra corded lace-trimmed organza and tulle trench coat – it is definitely an investment, so make sure you truly love the style. If you’re more colourful, you can try out a colourful trench coat, like this Topshop piece in mustard, which are becoming more and more popular and are a great way to add some colour to the darker days.

 (Bottega Veneta – convertible crinkled glossed-leather trench coat)

The trench coat really is the most classic of all coats, it can be worn in a chic way with all black underlayers, all the way to a modern take with a casual t-shirt and maxi skirt underneath.

The Aviator Jacket

An Aviator jacket is a true classic, vintage, boyfriend-esque vibe, while also being super comfortable and most importantly, warm! There are a range of new styles being brought to the fashion world this year, with oversized options by Pieces, to this classic shearling zip-up black jacket by REISS as well as their reversable version which means you have 2 jackets in one!

With most aviators, no matter whether they have the added belt at the base or a shearling interior, the style works perfectly for hourglasses due to the way they are shaped and often tapered in at the waist with their classic pockets. You can also style this jacket as a pear shape as long as the coat is more cropped in style, and finishes above your hips.

Teddy bear coats

You may have seen these blasting across the fashion world last year and they are here to stay again. A warm, luxurious, and comfortable overcoat, the teddy bear coat can come in a range of lengths. The classic teddy bear coat is by Max Mara, and comes in a range of colours to suit your preference.

The great thing about a teddy bear jacket is that it can work for every body shape. I suggest that if you are petite then look for a version that is specifically catered for your height, or a cropped option like this mint green teddy coat by ASOS Design. If you are an hourglass or pear shape, as with many oversized styles, you may loose your shape, so if you can get a belted version or wear it open rather than buttoned, you can still bring in your waist.

If you’re looking for a colourful option, rather than the neutral version, this baby blue Reclaimed Vintage option is a unique choice. You could also invest in this Stand Studio midnight blue faux fur option, that follows the similar styling as a teddy coat, this is another very easy coat that can be good for every body shape, although hourglasses and pear shapes might lose their waist definition by wearing this. It is still considerably cheaper than the Max Mara Teddy, but feels very similar with potentially a more mature fabric.

Double breasted coats

Military has such a wonderfully androgynous styling, and if this is your go to look, or you are looking for a coat that can toughen up your more girly style, then a double breasted jacket can be a great option for the autumn. Keep yourself warmer with a coat that is woollen, like this Balmain option.

A double-breasted coat is perfect for people with a more rectangular shape, who need to define their waist as the shape of the buttons, particularly on the Balmain option, create an optical illusion of a narrower waist. It also works incredibly well on hourglasses, as your naturally defined waist will fit perfectly within this coat. Tommy Hilfiger have also created a checked double blazer that is great if you love a professional pattern that is always a classic.

The belted jacket

If you like a coat that is truly a waist definer, then you can’t go wrong with a coat that has a belt! For added warmth, you can go for a quilted option as with this olive green creation by Alexa Chung – if you choose a similar style to this, be cautious of the quilted style if you are a more oval shape, as the belt may not do your shape justice.

If you are looking for a more classic option, perhaps without the quilted pattern, then & Other Stories are well known for their fabulous belted coats, such as this neutral alpaca option which also has buttons, as often just a belt on a jacket can still let the chill in!